Transcript:

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[Music]

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Hello and welcome. My name is Adrian, I

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use masculine pronouns, and this is

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usually the Freakish Lemon Video Podcast.

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This video is different than the usual

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content here on this channel. This video

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will take you through the process of

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machine knitting a Redford sweater, a

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pattern by Julie Hoover. This is a

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paid-for pattern which can be found on

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Ravelry. The link to which will be down

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below here on youtube or somewhere

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around here if you’re watching this

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somewhere else. The first thing to do, as

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with any knitting pattern, is read the

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pattern over for yarn information,

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yardage, sizing, fit, and the techniques

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that will be used. The Redford is a

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pieced sweater in stockinette, reverse

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stockinette, and ribbing, which makes it a

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perfect candidate for machine knitting. I

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had hand knit to this pattern before

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with mixed results due to my

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inexperience, so I went straight into

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caking up the yarn to swatch. I used

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Green Mountain Spinnery Lana sock

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yarn in a gray color. This is a toothy,

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kind of rustic fingering weight yarn. I

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first swatched on my Brother Ameno KH836e

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standard gauge flatbed knitting

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machine.

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[Music]

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[Music]

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[Music]

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[Music]

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[Music]

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[Music]

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[Music]

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[Music]

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Then I washed, blocked, and measured the

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swatch. I knit my swatch at dial setting

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9 – 81 stitches by 80 rows. Doing a swatch

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by machine makes it pretty easy to

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measure. While I was knitting the swatch,

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I added in little scrap yarn markers

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five stitches in from either edge every

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10 rows. To measure the stitch gauge, I

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just needed to put my ruler between two

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parallel markers on the swatch and

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record the measurement in inches. I know

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that between each of the parallel

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markers is 71 stitches. I took that

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measurement in three different places,

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divided these stitches by the

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measurement to get the stitches per inch

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for each section of the swatch, then took

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the average of these three numbers. I did

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the same for the row count. From orange

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scrap yarn to orange scrap yarn is 80

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rows.

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I took the length measurement in three

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different places and found the average

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rows per inch. My swatch gauge was 6.51

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stitches per inch and 10.4 rows per

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inch. I multiplied each number by four to

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compare it to the pattern gauge over

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four inches. The pattern gauge is 26

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stitches by 36 rows over 4 inches, so my

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gauge in this swatch was tighter than

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their recommended gauge. So I decided to

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do another swatch at dial setting 9 plus

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plus, which is just below the largest

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gauge setting on the Brother machine at

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dial setting 10.

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My brother machine struggled with the

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second swatch in this toothy fingering

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weight yarn, so I tried a swatch on my

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larger gauge machine. This machine is my

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Silver Reed LK150 midgauge flatbed

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knitting machine and is typically used

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for sport, DK, and worsted weight yarns. I

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knit my swatch on dial setting 2, which

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has a similar gauge to the dial setting

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10 on the Brother standard gauge

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knitting machine. Here are the numbers

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for my LK150 swatch. This came out to

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6.29 stitches per inch and

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10.32 rows per inch, which

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was closer to the pattern gauge. It was

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close enough that I used to the

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schematic measurements of the back piece

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at the bust to determine what size to

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make. I was aiming for the third size in

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this pattern with a finished bust

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measurement of 46 1/4 inches

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total.

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I used the bust measurement from the

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back piece schematic for the third size

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and determined that I needed the stitch

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count from the fourth size to get my

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desired end result. Then I cast on the

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back piece. The back piece is, in my

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opinion, the easiest to start with in

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machine knitting because it typically

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doesn’t have a lot of shaping. Once it’s

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done, it can be blocked and compared to a

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garment that fits me well to determine

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if my numbers worked out. Unfortunately

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during this first try, I didn’t like the

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fabric I was getting. I also didn’t

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alternate skeins and there was a very

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noticeable line where I changed from one

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skein to another. So I did another swatch,

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this time on dial 3 on the LK150.

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This came out to 5.73

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stitches per inch and 9.41 rows per inch,

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which is nearly on point for the pattern

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gauge. By my new calculations, I could use

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the pattern’s numbers for the third size

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to get a finished 46 1/4 inch

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bust measurement. So I cast on the back

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piece again.

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[Music]

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Once finished, I removed the cast on

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waste yarn, then washed and blocked the

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piece. I laid this back piece over a

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sweater that I had made previously and

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was able to line up the shoulders. Since

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the shoulders matched and that’s the

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hardest part to fit me properly, I

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continued on to make the other pieces of

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the sweater using the measurements from

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my fourth swatch. All six pieces of the

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sweater were cast on using waste yarn, a

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nylon rip cord, and e-wrap cast on, and

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then were knit in plain stockinette-

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which for machine knitting means that

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you move the carriage from left to right

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and right to left without manipulating

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the stitches on the needles in any way.

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Any increases or decreases used were the

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basic increases and decreases that can

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be found in the manual that comes with

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your knitting machine. I should note that

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the Redford sweater front piece does

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have a decorative detail at the front

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collar, but due to the way that I did my

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increases and decreases in this section,

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it is not visible on my machine knit

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piece. I believe this would be an easy

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correction to make, but I did not go back

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to correct this error on my sweater

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piece in this video. All the finished

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pieces of the sweater were washed and

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blocked, and then I began seaming.

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First I seamed the shoulders for the

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front and back, then the side panels to

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the front and back pieces.

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I seamed each sleeve separately. Because

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of the side panels on this sweater, I had

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to set in the sleeve round edge to round

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edge. In other sweater constructions the

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sleeve can be sewn to the front and back

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flat, then you can seam up the arm and

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down the side in one continuous line. Per

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the pattern, I then picked up the round

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neck edge to hand knit the ribbed collar.

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I could have done this by machine before

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seaming everything together, but I was

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playing yarn chicken with the yarn from

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my first two swatches by this point and

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didn’t want to risk running out. I did

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the same for each of the sleeve cuffs. I

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picked up the stitches with double

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pointed needles and knit the cuffs

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concurrently to make sure I had enough

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yarn to finish both.

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[Music]

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[Music]

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Another wash and block to set the

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finishing and my Redford sweater was

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complete. This version of the sweater did

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end up fitting me well, which I’m very

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pleased about, and now that I know what

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settings to use, I would happily make

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this sweater by machine again. So that’s

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going to do it for this video. Thank you

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so much for sticking through it to watch

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to the end and let me know if you have

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any questions regarding any of my

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explanations. I’m not prepared to

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necessarily teach you how to machine

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knit, but if anything was unclear in the

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process, please let me know so that I can

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encourage any interest in machine

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knitting. As always you can find me at

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all the fun places as freakishlemon.

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Links will be down below here on YouTube

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or somewhere around here if you’re

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watching this somewhere else. And that’s

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gonna do it from me. Goodbye.